Treading the Tropical Terrain: Exploring Corcovado National Park, Costa Rica
Exploring the Wilds of Corcovado National Park: A Thrilling Wildlife Excursion
Take a unique journey through the lush wilderness of Corcovado National Park, a remote environmental reserve in Costa Rica, housing a vast array of untamed wildlife.
Update: As of 2014, visitors are no longer allowed to hike Corcovado alone. Opt for guided tours to ensure a safe and enriching experience.
Announce Costa Rica as your travel destination and embark on an exhilarating road trip, weaving through breathtaking national parks that stud the landscape. Whilst Corcovado may not be the most accessible, it undoubtedly takes the cake as the most awe-inspiring park to visit, in my humble opinion.
No roads lead to the park boundaries. Instead, you'll have to lace up your boots, hike in, or hop on a boat or small bush plane to reach this pristine paradise.
Feeling up for a challenge? Brace yourself for the quintessential adventure. I opted for the most daunting and least expensive option – walking. After all, a weary journey often leads to a magnificent reward.
Several days of solo-trekking rewarded me with an extraordinary encounter with various wild creatures, some of which I had never laid eyes on before.
Traveling Costa Rica 2022
Costa Rica's doors are open once more to most travelers, including Americans, but remember to show proof of vaccination or a negative test result to gain entry. A myriad of hotels, attractions, and private tours are operating, albeit with new health and safety measures in place. Stay updated on the latest travel regulations here.
Journey to Corcovado Begins
My Corcovado odyssey commenced in the quaint village of Puerto Jimenez. Camping within the reserve is only permitted at ranger stations, and the coveted spots can be booked out weeks in advance.
Once I secured the necessary documents, I was forced to endure a five-day wait in town before commencing my expedition into Corcovado as all the camping spots were occupied. A small price to shell out for the unforgettable adventure ahead.
When the time finally arrived, I hopped aboard a livestock truck brimming with local families for a bumpy three-hour drive through a rutted jungle road towards the village of Carate.
Hiking Along the Shoreline
Upon arriving at Carate, I double-checked my gear, supplies, and rations, then set out for the first day of hiking along the beach, under a downpour. Arriving at La Leona Ranger Station park entrance about an hour later, the storm continued to lash down as I set up camp.
I spent the soggy afternoon wandering around nearby trails, watching irate spider monkeys, rainbow families of scarlet macaws, a toucan, and a motley crew of frogs. There's something indescribably magical about tromping through a rainforest in torrential rain!
Halloween Crabs and Coatis
A rejuvenating night's rest in my trusty hammock saw me rise before sunrise on the second day, ready to tackle the 9-hour hike to the Sirena ranger station. Right from the start, more enigmatic creatures emerged to greet me on my journey – a troop of about 20 mischievous coatis, indulging in a scrumptious breakfast of Halloween crabs.
Wildlife Encounters Galore!
As the sun climbed higher, irate spider monkey troupes continued to scold me whilst shaking the branches overhead. Eventually, White-Faced Capuchin monkeys made an appearance, appearing less offended by my presence compared to their spider monkey counterparts.
Spider monkeys certainly needed to take anger management classes!
Plodding deeper into the jungle, a slithering snake of some kind darted out from under the foliage near my feet. Thankfully, it was in no mood to strike!
The dense, humid, and shadowy rainforest path eventually returned me to the beach, where the scorching sun mercilessly bashed me into submission. Hiking for miles over soft sand with a full pack of food, water, camping equipment, and camera gear under the unrelenting midday sun was pure folksonomy!
Yes, I secretly hoped for more rainfall.
Sections of beach awash with hermit crabs made it seem alive. Gorgeous gangs of scarlet macaws chatted amongst themselves while gliding low overhead.
Alone In the Wild
Eventually, I stopped for lunch, finding solace under the shade of a colossal palm tree before taking a refreshing dip in the pounding waves and washing up with a freshwater shower from a nearby waterfall.
I could get accustomed to this.
The remainder of the excursion was spent crossing rivers, wading through tidal pools, getting turned around, chasing Jesus Christ Lizards, scaling palm trees, and having an absolute blast! After a long, exhausting, yet breathtaking 9-hour hike, I finally arrived at Sirena Ranger Station, deep within the reserve's heart.
During my entire hike, I hadn't crossed paths with a single soul until I set up camp and shared dinner with four strangers on a platform at Sirena. Howler monkeys roared at us from the trees at twilight, as I drifted off into a peaceful slumber.
Poachers in Corcovado
On the morning of the third day, I cooked up a hearty breakfast of canned tuna and refried beans wrapped in tortillas (yum!), geared up, and prepared to explore Corcovado's network of trails. Not long after snapping images of towering trees adorned with creepers along the marshy banks of the Rio Claro, a group of armed local men lumbered towards me.
I greeted them cheerily as they removed their boots to cross the river, only then noticing that two of the men were cuffed!
It was reassuring to see the park rangers enforcing Costa Rica's laws to protect the area.
Crocodiles and Sharks
There are several river crossings en route to Sirena, and they can be treacherous at high tide. Not only can the water reach neck depth, but aggressive bull sharks and 12-foot long crocodiles lurk beneath, ambushing schools of fish.
This is why it's crucial to consult tidal charts for the proper timing of your hike, as I was about to find out.
I attempted to wade across one river; the tide was rising, but it seemed manageable until crossing the river. As I was taking in the scenery on the other side, I suddenly saw fins darting through the water in the area I had planned to cross!
What the Hell is That!?
The sun had begun to set, indicating it was time to return to the ranger station for the night. Secretly hoping to spot a puma or jaguar before departing the following day, my senses were on high alert.
Without warning, an enormous creature burst through the greenery behind me. I turned just in time to watch it vanish towards the beach.
Running back the same way I came, I encountered the strange animal feasting on leaves on the edge of the sand. It was a peculiar creature, resembling a mad combination of pig, donkey, and anteater rolled into one.
Baird's Tapir
The animal is known as a Tapir, and I was surprised by its size – almost 4 feet tall, and at least 6 feet long. Thankfully, they are among the largest land mammals in Central America, but Baird's tapirs are endangered due to hunting and habitat loss.
I watched as this colossal fellow munched on leaves for a while, eventually approaching me closely. Its snout moves around like an elephant's trunk, making for quite the amusing spectacle up close!
I suspect he wanted to converse.
Revisit Wild Costa Rica
After an exhausting 4 days hiking through Costa Rica's magnificent Corcovado National Park, it was time to part ways with the park's myriad inhabitants. Along my journey, I spotted:
- Coati
- Spider Monkey
- White-Faced Capuchin Monkey
- Mantled Howler Monkey
- Bull Shark
- American Crocodile
- Northern Tamandua Anteater
- Tayra
- Collared Peccary
- Scarlet Macaw
- Boa Constrictor
- Blue Morpho Butterfly
- Pale-Billed Woodpecker
- Toucan
- Bare-Throated Tiger Heron
- Jesus Christ Lizard
- Halloween Crab
- Hermit Crab
Numerous frogs, snakes, fish, and birds that I couldn't identify also crossed my path.
Returning to the village of Carate after a challenging 7-hour trek, I slurped down a few well-deserved beers and smoked my last Nicaraguan cigar while waiting for the infamous truck ride back into town. Reminiscing about my newfound wildlife friends in Costa Rica's captivating Corcovado National Park evoked memories I won't soon forget. ★
UPDATE: As of 2014, visitors are required to hike Corcovado in the company of a licensed professional guide.
Embark on an adventure-travel experience in Costa Rica, exploring the untamed wilderness of Corcovado National Park, a remote environmental reserve that houses a vast array of wildlife.
With Covid-19 restrictions easing, traveling Costa Rica in 2022 offers a unique opportunity to encounter diverse wildlife, such as spider monkeys, scarlet macaws, coati, and even tapirs, in this pristine tropical paradise.
